Tell us a bit about the break. It was a big left and you're a goofyfoot, so it was on your forehand. Is it the first time you've surfed there?
Punta da Lobos is a left point break in Chile, most of the other big waves are right handers, so being a goofyfooter its a dream come true to be able to surf a big wave on my forehand. Yeah it was actually my first time in South America, and wow what an awsome country Chile is. Everyone was so cool and supportive.
Did you at least get a warm-up surf before the event?
I was able to surf the day before, the waves where actually really big the day before so it was nice to get a feel for the wave. I rode a smaller board that day though which maybe wasn't the right move, but I didn't know what to expect. I was so nervous, haha.
I had one big wave that closed out on me and I got so beat. I was really worried that I was going to hit the rocks. Luckily I didn't
You took down some big names winning that first heat (including Californian legend Peter Mel) - did it motivate or intimidate you to have those cats in the water with you?
I was so nervous the night before, I was actually sharing a room with Peter and was kinda picking his brain about surfing big waves and about the wave. I didn't get a second of sleep that night I was so nervous. I woke up before everyone the day of the comp, got my iPod and just tried to amp myself up. It was dark so I couldn't see the waves but I could hear them and it sounded HUGE.
Any big wipeouts on the day?
I had one big one that closed out on me and I got so beat. I was really worried that I was going to hit the rocks. Luckily I didn't.
Ok, tell the truth - do you ever get scared? And, how do you deal with that fear?
I get so scared, I'm not gonna try and be all macho and so I don't, but that feeling when you first see those massive waves and know that you are going out is the most amazing feeling in the world. I try not to think about what could happen and try to focus my thoughts more towards being in the right place and visualizing catching a massive one when it comes through.
Where to from here?
At the moment I'm 7th on the big wave world tour. So my next goal is to try and get to Peru for the next comp. And hopefully we are gonna have some big waves in Cape Town this year - that would be so awesome. Eventually I want to big wave world champ but that's gonna take time. I'm SO stoked though, I had an awesome trip and proved to myself more than anything that I can beat the best guys in the world.
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